Authors Posts by Caleb


Caleb Lee is the #1 best-selling author of "Concealed Carry 101" and founder of He is a civilian (no law enforcement or military experience) who shares information about self-defense and becoming more self-reliant. He's a 1st degree black belt in Taekwondo, NRA Certified Basic Pistol & Personal Protection Inside The Home Instructor, Concealed Carry Academy Instructor certified & also a graduate of the Rangermaster firearms instructor course. He's also the author of numerous online courses including the course.

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    If you could only have one gun, which one would it be?

    (I’ll pause and let you think about your answer…)

    It makes for a compelling mental exercise if you ask yourself what you would carry if you truly needed it in a given scenario.

    I’ll show you what I’d do. And what I’d suggest any of my friends and family do, too. Let’s get started…

    First, you consider a survival scenario. You won’t always be able to hunker down in your well-equipped survival retreat with your vault full of guns and your stockpile of ammunition.

    “Survival” implies a certain flexibility.

    You may be at home, with the hatches battened down, sure, especially if the problem causing an emergency is civil unrest or a temporary power outage.

    But what if you’re called on to use your survival skills because a wildfire is forcing an evacuation? What if a flood or some other natural disaster is bearing down on you? What if your government mandates an evacuation for one of any number of reasons, and all you can have with you in terms of supplies and equipment is what you can carry?

    Realistically, you’re going to be able to carry a long gun, maybe two if you’re feeling youthful. More than that just isn’t going to work out unless you want to struggle to move and wear yourself out quickly.

    You may think you can “cheat” these limitations by carrying a handgun or some sort of short-barreled weapon, such as a handgun fitted into a personal defense weapon stock (essentially producing a short-barreled rifle or even a semi-automatic “submachinegun” envelope).

    The problem is that “survival” firearms needs aren’t usually “combat” firearms needs…

    Combat takes place at relatively short ranges, especially in urban environments.

    That is where any sort of short-barreled weapon shines.

    But “survival,” especially survival in any sort of long-term capacity, implies longer distances. You may need to hunt game; you may need to fend off hostile parties from a distance.

    “Survival” also implies you’ll be alone or working with a small group of fellow survivors. You’ll be outnumbered by the myriad hostiles you could face, from government forces to looters to rioters and other citizens who want what you could be carrying.

    What all this adds up to is that, yes, you may well be carrying a pistol or personal defense weapon, but that’s your fighting and self-defense tool, not your survival weapon.

    Your survival weapon is a long-range tool, a means to reach out and get someone or keep someone off you.

    Survival weapons can also be used for long-range destruction of personal property.

    You may be wondering how this is a “survival” function at all, but it may be the case that you need to make it more difficult for people to track you or for authorities to intercept in you a full-blown, collapse-of-law-and-order emergency. In that case, your survival weapon can be used to strike everything from cameras (a particularly pesky issue these highly monitored days) to electrical transformers and a variety of other equipment.

    So now that you know you should be carrying a long gun, what’s the best long gun to have?

    (Again, I’ll pause for your answer…)

    Now, you might choose to go with a shotgun as your general-purpose survival weapon. The shotgun has a lot to recommend it…

    A good pump-shotgun is very simple and readily available. In a time when there are more and more unconstitutional gun laws hemming in your ability to purchase and own a firearm, pump shotguns offer decent firepower that is usually quite legal (given the pump shotguns traditional standing as a hunting weapon, one of the few firearms the political left will still grudgingly allow you).

    A typical pump gun holds five rounds or so, which is more than enough firepower for limited engagements.

    At relatively close ranges, the shotgun has great knockdown power. A variety of loads are available for it, including “specialty” rounds that let you tailor what the weapon is supposed to do (such as busting door locks).

    Realistically, though, there are only two loads you should be considering in a twelve-gauge pump gun…

    The first is double-aught (00) buck shot, which is basically nine metal pellets (each of them about the size of a nine-millimeter bullet without the cartridge case).

    The second is deer slugs, which are just a single heavy projectile. If you’ve ever shot a deer slug through plywood, you know it makes a hole about the size of a quarter.

    At closer ranges the fearsome power of either load should be obvious. (Every other load is a waste of your time; bird shot and other lighter shot don’t penetrate deeply enough for self-defense use, which is why the fellow Vice President Dick Cheney accidentally shot in the face didn’t actually die from getting hit.)

    This is why the twelve-gauge shotgun is so well-regarded as a home-defense weapon. It puts immense power and moderate range in an affordable, legal, durable, and reliable package that almost anyone can own.

    But here’s the thing…

    As the distances get longer, the shotgun looks less desirable as a survival weapon.

    The farther the distances get, the more 00 buck shot will spread. This means that if you’re shooting at a target that is near anything (or anyone) you DON’T want to shoot, you have no real idea where the pellets are going to go. Even if you have taken the time to gauge different shooting distances and work out the spread zones for each, this is still just a guess.

    You can compensate for this problem by loading only slugs, or carrying slugs with the weapon (such as on a sidesaddle or in a bandolier sling) and loading them for when you anticipate needing them.

    But this brings us to the other problem of shotguns…

    They are very loud, and if you are using your weapon to destroy equipment in order to foul pursuit by enemy forces or compromised authorities, your long-term-survival or “bug out” situation could quickly become an active pursuit. The same is true if you are using your survival weapon to hunt game. The boom of a shotgun will give away your position for a long way around.

    Before ammunition shortages and skyrocketing prices made the lowly .22 Long Rifle hard to find, it was the easiest thing in the world to recommend a .22 Long Rifle weapon for all-around survival.

    Provided you take care to stockpile ammunition, this is still the case.

    A good .22 can handle all the basic utility, hunting, and even equipment destruction needs you might have while surviving, evading pursuit, foraging in hostile territory or non-permissive environments, and even fighting off enemies. While not the most powerful defensive round by a long shot, the .22 LR still takes more lives on an annual basis (or it did, domestically) than any other round simply because it is (or was) so common.

    A .22 enables you to carry a lot of ammunition in a relatively small space with low weight requirements. It has long range, is relatively quiet (and can be made more quiet with subsonic ammunition and improvised silencers), and can be very accurate, which is desirable in a survival long arm.

    You want to hit what you’re aiming at and nothing else, and you want to be able to do this without drawing too much unwanted attention.

    A good all-around semi-automatic choice for a .22 survival rifle, which does everything we’ve described and more, is the Ruger 10/22.

    These are common, accurate, and very well made. Models on the market now include a take-down version that breaks in two for easy storage and transport. Equipped with a scope, the Ruger 10/22 is capable or excellent accuracy, which makes it ideal for small game, but also gives you ten quick shots with which to take down an adversary.

    With factory rotary magazines, it is quite reliable. A five-round magazine is available for those states that have draconian magazine limits, too.

    Finally, if you have made the decision to carry a .22 Long Rifle survival weapon, there is one more weapon you might choose: The Henry .22 Lever Action.

    This rifle has a tubular magazine that holds a great many .22 rounds, but that it is not the weapon’s primary advantage. What makes the Henry a great choice is that it can fire .22 Short, .22 Long, and .22 Long Rifle.

    That means that even in times of ammunition scarcity, you can find some sort of .22 ammo that will fire in your gun. .22 Short is also a great caliber for taking small game and shooting practice rounds while making very little noise.

    Finally, in a survival weapon, you could choose to upgrade to what is considered by some to be a glorified “varmint gun” anyway — the AR15 platform.

    The 5.56mm / .223 round this weapon fires (and please be careful when selecting ammunition, because the two are not necessarily interchangeable depending on the weapon) does everything that the .22 Long Rifle does, but with longer reach and greater power. This makes it a better compromise if you’re worried about engaging hostile forces or taking heavier game than the .22 Long Rifle can reliably kill.

    The tradeoff for stepping up to a .223 from the .22 LR in a survival weapon is noise and ammunition capacity. You can’t carry as much ammo with you for the AR as you can for the .22 LR. The weapon is also louder, raising your profile in a survival setting.

    Regardless of the platform you choose, always keep in mind your intended purpose…

    Your survival gun and your combat gun aren’t necessarily the same thing. Choose your weapon accordingly.

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    Do you have a survival bracelet?

    If your answer is “no?” Or, “What’s a survival bracelet, Caleb?!?!?” …

    Then pay close attention. Because I’m going to show you what it is, why you need one, and best of all — how to make one for pennies on the dollar.

    Put simply, a survival cord bracelet will help you to survive. It can be used for everything from stopping blood flow during an emergency to creating a clothesline to air out your supplies.

    The cord that is used for making that bracelet is parachute cord, sometimes called the shortened “paracord” or even “550 cord.”

    It was originally manufactured to military specification for use in making suspension lines for parachutes. Like anything else made to meet military specifications, it’s a lot more than it seems to be; tougher than any other comparable cord.

    The name “550 cord” comes from the fact that a single strand of milspec paracord must be able to support 550 pounds hanging from it. That’s pretty amazing, when you consider that it’s only 5/32 inch (4mm) in diameter. By comparison, a normal three stranded 1/4 inch nylon rope (made of the same material) has a 124 pound rating, much lower than the paracord.

    Most of the colorful paracord sold at retail is commercial, as opposed to milspec, as the military specification limits the colors to those normally used for military applications.

    Before accepting any paracord as being milspec, you should verify that the manufacturer has a valid Mil-Spec Certification Certificate. Even this may not prove the cord to be milspec, as the same manufacturers often manufacture cord for the military as well as civilian markets.

    So that’s step #1: If you’re making a bracelet, you want mil-spec paracord.After all, wouldn’t would make sense to carry the best possible paracord, rather than something that might let you down in a pinch?

    So just what is paracord good for anyways?

    Well, a lot of really cool things…

    You can make replacement straps for a backpack or purse with it.

    You can replace your boot laces with it, to ensure you have a few feet more on hand at all times.

    But these aren’t the main uses for the paracord.

    Besides a good knife and some matches, rope is probably the most useful survival tool around. Its utility comes from its versatility. Some of the many uses for paracord in a survival situation include:

    Pitch a tent – If you’ve got a tarp or poncho and some paracord, you can easily make a tent to keep yourself out of the rain.

    Hold up your pants – When your belt breaks at the wrong time, you can use paracord to make a belt or suspenders.

    Hang a bear bag – Hang your food from a tree branch, high enough to keep any bears that are visiting your campsite from getting into it.

    Sleeping in a tree – If you’ve seen Hunger Games, you might remember Katniss tying herself into a tree to sleep at night. I would have tied my body to the trunk of the tree, rather than just tying my legs to a branch, but the idea is the same.

    Stop blood flow – In the case of a serious injury to a limb, you may need to stop or slow the flow of blood. A tourniquet made out of paracord will do the trick.

    Repairing broken equipment – If a backpack strap breaks or some other piece of equipment falls apart, paracord can be just about as useful as duct tape for emergency repairs.
    String a clothes line – Eventually you’ll have to wash your clothes. A clothesline is a much easier way to dry them than throwing them over bushes, where they’ll pick up leaves, bugs and twigs.

    Repair torn clothing – Take the paracord apart and use the internal strands to sew back on buttons or repair tears caused by the underbrush.

    As dental floss – While you’ve got your paracord torn apart for sewing, you can take the inside yarns apart and use the individual fibers for cleaning between your teeth.

    Tie up a captured enemy – If you’re the type that doesn’t want to kill your enemies, but forgot to bring a pair of handcuffs, you can tie them up with short pieces of paracord. Using short pieces is much more secure than long ones, as each additional wrap with a long cord gives more opportunity for slack in the cord.

    As a safety rope when climbing – While paracord isn’t climbing rope, it will support your weight. If you aren’t all that sure of your climbing ability, use a couple of runs of paracord to catch you, in case you slip.

    Use it for a sling – If you happen to fall while climbing and need to take care of a broken arm, you can use paracord to tie sticks to your arm for a splint, and then make a loop out of paracord for a sling.

    Make a backpack – If you find yourself lost without a backpack, you can use paracord to tie up any bundle, putting shoulder straps on it to use as an emergency backpack.

    Make a shelter – The hardest part of making a lean-to or other shelter is coming up with some way of tying it together. While you can use grass, it’s a lot harder than it looks. A little paracord will make it much easier to tie those tree branches together.

    Start a fire – Make a bow drill for starting a fire.

    Make snow shoes – Snow shoes are a loop of wood, with cords strung across it, making a surface that won’t sink into the snow easily. A perfect application for paracord.

    Get some food – You can make a sling out of paracord (not a slingshot), use the inner strands for fishing line or make snares to catch small game.

    Hang something around your neck – Flashlights, compasses and signal mirrors are easily lost. Hang them around your neck on a loop of paracord to keep them from getting misplaced.

    Obviously these 19 suggestions aren’t by any means a complete list

    My intent here isn’t to show you everything that you can do with paracord or a paracord survival bracelet, but merely to make you aware of the value of having it in a survival situation.

    Now, of course you can buy one … but like we said before they can be kind of pricey.

    Now, because we want to be self-reliant, I’m going to show you how to make an awesome mil-spec bracelet yourself… the DIY way… for pennies on the dollar.

    Let’s get started…

    STEP #1: First, you’ll need to determine the length of the bracelet you want to make. To do so, measure around your arm and then add an inch to an inch and a half, including the length of the buckle.

    You’ll need about a foot of paracord for every inch of your bracelet length, less the length of the buckle. So, if you are making a 7-1/2 inch long bracelet, subtract the inch of length for the buckle and multiply by a foot, giving you 6-1/2 feet. Cut it a little long, say at 7 feet, just to be sure you have enough. You can always trim it, but it doesn’t stretch well.

    STEP #2: Use the lighter to melt the cut end of the paracord, eliminating any fraying and sealing the end together so that it doesn’t continue to fray.

    STEP #3: Fold the piece of paracord in half, so that the ends line up. You will start working from the midpoint. Run the midpoint through one of the buckle loops and pull the cord all the way through the loop that is formed, until the loop is tight up against the buckle. This makes a half-hitch knot.

    Half Hitch Knot STEP #4: Separate the buckle and run the free ends of the paracord down through the loop on the other end of the buckle, pulling the cord through the loop until you reach the point where the overall length of the bracelet, including the buckles is the desired finished length.

    Note: the amount of cord you leave between the two buckles is important as it will determine the overall length of the bracelet.

    You will be working from the second end of the buckle. For ease of working, it is helpful to use something to hold this in place. For the photos, I used a couple of small nails to hold it in place on a board. The other part of the buckle is held in place by a clip.

    STEP #5: Take one of the loose ends of the cord and pass it under the two strands that are going between the buckles. Then take the other strand and lay it over the two strands as shown in the picture.

    Step 5 Note: It is important to keep track of which string goes under and which string goes over, as they must consistently do that. So, in the case of the picture, the string that was on the bottom side of the picture went under and the string that was on the top side went over. For the next row of the bracelet, the string that goes over will be starting from the top, not the bottom. It is the same string, it has just changed sides.

    STEP #6: Pull the end of the back string through the loop made between the opposite side and the center strands. Then push the front string through the loop made between the opposite side and the center string. Once both ends have been put through the loops, pull tight.

    Step 6 STEP #7: Continue tying the knots to make the bracelet, alternating sides to keep the pattern consistent. Don’t lose track of which strand is going behind, as that strand always needs to go behind to keep the pattern consistent. After a while, it will look like this:

    Step 7

    Note: If you lose track of which strand goes over and which one goes under, you can tell by looking at the knots on the bracelet. There is a loop on the side that goes over the top. The strand on the other side of the bracelet is the one that goes underneath the two strands in the middle.

    STEP #8: You will need to continue tying knots until you reach the other end of the bracelet. Don’t worry; once you get the hang of it, it goes very quickly.

    STEP #9: Once you reach the buckle at the other end of the bracelet, you are ready to finish it off. To do so, cut the excess cord off about 1/8 inch away from the bracelet. Using the lighter, melt the end of the cord to seal it and prevent it from raveling.

    There you have it…

    A tool you’ve just made that can do everything from cutting off excessive blood flow… to hanging clothes… to even cutting wire ties in an emergency.



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      Knives 101
      Knives 101

      Knives are one of those tools and weapons that EVERYBODY has. But the sad fact is this: Most people have the WRONG knife

      And a knife that won’t work when you need it to, or which is unsuitable for the task at hand, might as well be at home in a drawer…

      That’s why I’d like to show you how to choose the right knife for Everyday Carry (EDC.) Don’t worry, it doesn’t have to be hard or confusing.

      Let’s get started…

      STEP #1: Fixed or Folding?

      Fixed or Folding Knife
      Fixed or Folding Knife?

      The very first thing you’re going to have to decide is if you will carry a fixed blade or a folding knife.

      Here’s the basic rule: Fixed blades are stronger than folding knives. And because they do not have to be opened, they are easier to deploy under stress.

      The problem is that legally, a fixed blade knife is less likely to be seen as a utility tool. Folding knives have a long tradition as “pocketknives” and are therefore more apt to be accepted as having some non-martial, utilitarian purpose.

      When choosing your knife, the choice of fixed or folding is really up to you, and you can probably make a case for either unless there are laws where you live that make the choice for you.

      If you do choose a folding knife, though, make sure it is a reputable brand-name make and of decent quality, with a lock that is strong enough not to fail when you need it most.

      STEP #2: Choose The Right Size

      Next up you’re going to want to decide on the size and length.

      The bigger your folding knife is, the more impractical and the more “weapon like” it’s going to become. Choose a size of knife with which you are comfortable and that fits within the role you have selected for your knife. But the biggest factor on deciding on length will be the law.

      What you’ll find is that trying to determine the exact law where you live can be very frustrating. Most knife laws are so vague that they allow a police officer to arrest you or at least harass you for carrying almost anything.

      To learn the law, check your state’s penal code (these are often found online, these days; there was a time when you had to schlep your way to the library and look this stuff up in the law books there). Also check for local/municipal restrictions wherever those are located.

      But here’s the important thing to remember…

      Do NOT ask a police officer, as police officers generally do not know the letter of the law.

      STEP #3: Choose The Right Blade Pattern (Very important!)

      Next up is the blade pattern. And pay close attention here, because this is very important.

      Blade pattern simply refers to the shape of the blade.

      A lot of basic bushcraft and survival/utility knives are drop point blades. This just mean the point of the blade is offset, resulting in a blade with more utility than, say, a spear point (which looks exactly like you think it does).

      Spear points and drop points are fairly useful for general utility and self-defense. There’s nothing notable about them, really. These are the blade shapes that are simplest.

      Wharncliffe blade shapes have a nice, straight edge that is easy to resharpen. They curve down from the spine to the tip, producing a curved forward shape that isn’t as useful for stabbing and penetrating as some other designs.

      Blade Style
      Choosing the Right Blade Style for Your Knife is Very Important!

      The clip-point is your classic Bowie knife pattern. It looks like a knife that has a piece lopped out of it at the front, producing a needle-sharp tip and a nice curved belly for slicing. These are excellent for self-defense and generally fairly useful for survival knives.

      The tanto blade shape is based on the edge of the Japanese sword, and is most frequently encountered as the Americanized Tanto. This was popularized (but not invented by) Cold Steel. In the Americanized Tanto, two edges meet to form a secondary point. This is bad for slicing (it has no “belly,” or curved portion, for cutting) but very tough and strong, so it penetrates reasonably well. It’s also easy to sharpen, and the secondary point is useful for scoring and utility chores. This is almost always a pattern associated with self-defense, not survival.

      There are other blade shapes, but to generalize, an EDC knife used for utility and self-defense will generally give you the best results in a spear-point, drop-point, or clip-point.

      An EDC knife used exclusively for self-defense can easily be an Americanized Tanto.

      A bushcraft blade or a medium sized knife used for survival will typically be a drop-point or clip-point blade pattern. There are always exceptions and your mileage may vary, of course.

      STEP #4: Plain or Serrated?

      Plain or Serrated Edge Knife
      Plain or Serrated Edge Knife?

      Here’s the gist of the plain vs. serrated debate:

      Serrations are typically of limited value on a survival/bushcraft knife. So if you’re looking for a knife for one of those situations, opt for a plain blade in one of those almost always.

      On the other hand, serrations are good for carving through clothing, though, and for grabbing a loose, hanging piece of work like a rope or a cloth.

      Plain blades are easier to resharpen. Serrated knives can also be resharpened, but you have to use a sharpening rod to hone each scallop of the serrations individually.

      Serrations will keep on ripping even after a blade goes dull, but they really do add maintenance time to the knife, and they make it harder to keep it clean.

      I generally prefer plain edges for ease of resharpening and maintenance, but I’ve never not bought a knife simply because it was partially or completely serrated.

      So there you have it – four easy steps to make sure you’re prepared in any situation with the right EDC knife.


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      Gun Powder
      How to Make Your Own Gun Powder

      Although most Americans don’t know this, gunpowder can be made at home too.

      Actually, what you can make is black powder, not today’s modern “smokeless powder.” Black powder doesn’t have as fast a burn rate; so will provide a lower muzzle velocity, but in an emergency it is usable.

      Here’s how to do it…

      To make black powder, you simply need to follow these steps:

      1. Finely grind potassium nitrate (otherwise known as saltpeter), charcoal and sulfur.

      2. Mix the powdered charcoal and sulfur at a ratio of 60% charcoal to 40% sulfur. Be sure to mix thoroughly.

      3. Chill 600 ml or 2-1/2 cups of rubbing alcohol for every 100 grams of the charcoal/sulfur mix you are using.

      4. Measure out 300 grams of potassium nitrate for every 100 grams of the charcoal/sulfur mix you are using.

      5. Heat 40 ml of purified water to boiling for every 100 grams of potassium nitrate you are using. Dissolve the potassium nitrate in the boiling water, stirring continuously.

      6. Slowly stir the charcoal/sulfur mix into the boiling water, mixing it thoroughly with the potassium nitrate.

      7. In a well ventilated area, pour the boiling mixture into the chilled alcohol in a heat resistant bucket or pot. Stir together thoroughly.

      8. Chill this mixture to 32oF or 0oC as quickly as possible. The faster it chills, the more potent the black powder will be.

      9. Once chilled, filter the mixture through a piece of cheesecloth, squeezing to remove as much liquid as possible. If you don’t have cheesecloth, any piece of cloth will do. Wear rubber gloves to protect your hands.

      10. Spread the resulting wet material out on paper to dry in the sun. Do not dry all the way, merely to the point of being slightly damp.

      11. Press the damp powder through a wire screen or sieve to remove any lumps. It is useful to have several different sizes of screen, so that you can filter it through finer and finer levels. Finer powder will burn more evenly.

      12. Spread the finished black powder in the sun to dry fully. Store in a sealed container to keep moisture out.

      Since this is homemade black powder, you have no way of knowing ahead of time exactly what the burn rate will be. You will probably need to use more of it in your cartridges than you would of commercially available smokeless powder.

      Some experimentation will be required to find a good charge for your cartridges.

      Be careful about this, working your way up to a good charge, rather than starting high and working your way down.

      One precaution you need to be aware of with black powder is that it is corrosive when fired. So always be sure to clean your guns after firing rounds loaded with black powder. Failure to do so will cause pitting of the barrel.

      Give it a try. I think you’ll be surprised how satisfying it can be…


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        You’ve no doubt seen the “Knockout Games” that street thugs have been playing…

        They’ve been all over the news – showing innocent victim and victim get brutally beaten with sucker punches…

        And while they’ve faded from the news recently, that doesn’t mean it’s time for you to sit back and relax. The scary fact is this: Many Americans walk around completed exposed to violence. Most are completely UN-prepared.

        That’s why I want to you show the three critical things you must have to avoid and survive any attack. All these things are completely, 100% free. But in order to make them work, you must take this seriously.

        Let’s get started…

        STEP #1: You MUST get out of the victim mentality

        It’s no secret that criminals and other lowlifes tend to go for the path of least resistance…

        That’s why an old lady is more likely to get her purse snatched, than a six-foot-four body builder with muscles stacked upon muscles.

        Even the dumbest criminals in the world are well aware of the obvious fact that things can easily go bad when you mess with a muscle-bound behemoth.

        Little things like awareness, confidence, and posture send strong messages to would-be violators that you’re not the type to go down without a fight.

        So don’t crouch in fear when you walk. Instead, portray confidence… even in the scariest of conditions.

        STEP #2: You MUST get in tune with your killer instinct

        Regardless of the circumstances, no one has a right to hurt you.

        Unfortunately, there are always those who didn’t get that memo.

        For you to be able to properly utilize effective self-defense, it’s extremely important that you’re able to execute all you’ve learned under pressure.

        Therefore, you need to be mentally ready to inflict serious damage on an attacker.

        Those who haven’t mentally prepared themselves for the brutality of combat will typically hesitate, and given the fact seconds can be crucial in combat situations, the result of said hesitation could be fatal.

        The bottom line is basically this: when you face a situation in which your LIFE is threatened, you need to know beforehand that you are going to act.

        That’s why it’s critical you pay attention to everything I’ll show you…

        STEP #3: You MUST get rid of your ego

        Learning techniques that can be used to defeat bigger, stronger opponents doesn’t give you the right to go around looking for trouble.

        Violence should always be a last resort, so you should always try to diffuse altercations verbally or by simply removing yourself from the situation.

        However, you should always be ready for the potential for violence the minute you find yourself in a confrontation since it’s not uncommon for an attacker to launch a sneak attack hoping to catch you off guard.

        There’s an old proverb that captures the mentality one should have in confrontational situations: ‘Speak softly, but carry a big stick.’

        This also goes along with the #2 point …

        You don’t destroy a man’s body because you got in an argument at a bar …

        You don’t injure another human being permanently … or take his human machine to non-functional … or (if necessary) take his life … because he was rude to your wife.

        Those are all “anti-social” situations.

        Violence is not the answer.

        But like Tim Larkin and his people say “when violence is the answer … it’s the only answer”.

        Meaning – when violence is the only answer – you’ll know.

        You’ll be in a situation where the only option is to survive …

        You can’t diffuse it … you can’t run away … he may have already hit you with the brick in the back of the head or stabbed you in the ribs with the knife …

        In short these are “Asocial” moments when you have no other option. Violence is the ONLY answer because you either answer with violence or violence is done to you.

        There literally is no choice.



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        One of the stories that went forgotten this year is that of a St. Louis grandmother who, when “knockout game” thugs came calling, turned her gun on the thugs.

        Supposedly she shot and killed a man (some stories say two) who tried to walk up and punch her out.

        This is the “knockout game,” a nationwide trend that got a lot of press earlier this year.

        True news stories of predominantly black males targeting what are typically white senior citizens or middle aged people have alarmed citizens across the country.

        A lot of people have started to wonder if this is the start of a black-on-white crime wave, because so many of the reports involve black criminals and white victims.

        If a senior citizen used a legally concealed weapon to shoot a thug like that, to prevent harm to herself while putting a thug in his place, that would make her exactly the sort of person we would want to profile on these pages.

        Sadly, however, we must report that the pistol-packing granny doesn’t exist. We can’t profile her for that reason. But the “knockout game” is very real, despite the fact that several prominent “liberals” and“progressives” have begun repeating the lie that it is a hoax.

        You see, there’s a certain political class out there, a certain ideology, that sees your freedom as a threat.

        You owning a gun, you being able to defend yourself, is the problem, to these people. They don’t want you to have a gun. They don’t want you to be self-reliant.

        If you are attacked by thugs because of the color of your skin or your age makes you look like an “easy target”, they want you to be a good little victim.

        They hope you’ll get knocked out.

        They don’t care if you are killed.

        They don’t care if your family is raped.

        They only know that guns scare them and the freedom to carry guns scares them.

        They hate self-defense and aren’t capable of it themselves, so they project their weakness on everyone else.

        Any citizen who stand up to this, any citizen who uses legally and morally justified force to stand up to thuggery and political correctness, is standing for his or her rights as an American citizen.

        Anyone who does this is worthy of a profile in these pages.

        The grandmother who defeated the knockout game thugs doesn’t exit… but the threat, and the good people out there on the streets who are just trying to go to work and get home at the end of the day, are no less real than you or me.




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        If you don't know, there are some INSANE laws from 1934 that govern much of what is "legal" in the firearms world. They're known as...